The Roman-style pizza has the same amount of appeal, properly lofted, bubbling with enough air to make a slab of bread taste weightless. It’s hard to find a more handsome pizza hangout than an Art Deco–era building with high ceilings, marble-topped tables, and one resplendent bar. The covered patio is similarly impressive. Squares of cheese or cupped pepperoni offer a single-serving alternative to more traditional pies on an exceedingly savvy menu of beer snacks. Steel-walled pans achieve admirable crunch along the edges, and dough aims somewhere between nonna’s house and southern Italy. Jason Stoneburner embraces the underappreciated genre of Grandma-style pizza, a more rustic take on Sicilian pies. Technically the taproom’s specialty pizza squares might fail the height requirement to qualify as deep-dish. (You can-and should-always drop by for soft serve.) Each month’s takeout slots book up at speeds that make the hunt for a PCR test seem chill, so hover on Instagram and mark your calendars. Moto’s toppings are as improbably delightful as its location-lechon kawali with chimichurri, heaps of dungeness with lemon and dill, clam chowder or Harlem-style chopped cheese sandwich fixings. The man blends his own cheese, sourcing genuine Wisconsin brick. Hand-mixed, high-hydration sourdough yields a crust that will blow your mind, but only in very limited quantities. Nope, it’s Lee Kindell’s seven-by-nine-inch Detroit-style pies. This pizzeria’s location- inside a tiny holdout cottage huddled between a pair of mid-rises-isn’t even its most notable feature. Take heed: Sunny Hill technically has more seating on its patio than it does indoors. Ditto the large-format version available on weekends. The kitchen now pulls off nearly 50 a day, but online preorders still sell out fast. But his chef nature surfaces, too: Sunny Hill proofs the dough a tad longer to improve its texture, and rocks toppings like fennel sausage, soppressata, and green onions. Co-owner Jason Stoneburner spent most of his childhood in Detroit, emerging with an appreciation for the town’s square pizza pans and chunky tomato sauce. But the limited-edition square pies deserve pantheon status. The standard pizzas at this turbo-talented neighborhood restaurant are great. The Pepperoni Paint Job, with its dual layers of meat, is a great introduction, but the experimental specials, like slices inspired by vegan reubens or quiche or everything bagels, are weirdly wonderful. It’s all that crisped cheese goodness, now with a saltier, slightly tangy crust, a style that hovers somewhere between Chicago and Detroit. Windy City Pie was the best deep-dish in town-until it spun off this destination for sourdough-crust pies at the entrance of the Clock-Out Lounge. But the online ordering interface is incredibly convenient (you can even specify whether to pre-slice that pie) and bursts of fresh garlic and tangy sauce keep this pizza’s midsection on point. These are the sort of pies that put skeptics off deep-dish, given the big, bready jolt of crust around the edges. The California-based chain has a location on Ballard Avenue with the old-brick neighborhood’s standard-issue “been there forever” aesthetic, plus some covered outdoor tables to remind you, it’s definitely 2022. You can also order for takeout or delivery through Caviar. Pies arrive tableside in their round pans, with puffy cornices and a surface of chunky tomato sauce. The deep-dish side of the menu spans 11 combos, from a sausage-topped Ditka homage to pineapple with pepperoni. New York and Chicago pizzas share equal billing at a neighborhood parlor by the University Bridge that feels built for Little League afterparties.
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